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Just finishing up the arm on this guy and tried to pull off NMM on the goldwork and sword. It is lacking a bit I know but the first time I have really tried NMM and super glazing. So opinions critiques please
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Hi,
I lie the look of the sword. To me though it looks more like a bone coloured sword rather than a silvery metal nmm. I think the black lining is too harsh between the balde and the hilt. I am not an expert on NMM though at all. I like the colour of the red. My personal prefereence is for it to be a little darker in the shading though. It's coming along well I think. I like the look of the sculpts face and look forward to seeing how you do it up. Is this a Privateer Press mini?"Who needs weights? Animals don't lift weights, and animals are STRONG!"
-Chuck "the Truck" Wallace -
I think Scotts point about needing more shading is good and could be carried through to the whole mini. For NMM to work you need lots of contrast. It's tough to get that sometimes but that's why the technique can be difficult.
Zach
www.crookedeye.netComment
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What's super shading?Comment
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Thanks for the comments. Yes, its a Privateer press figure. Super glazing is what I call it but some would call it something else. To me, its laying down extremely thin paint to water like, 10-12 parts water to one part paint and then glazing over a particular area like hundreds of times to slowly build up a color variant from the base color. It takes a really long time but I cant figure out any other way of not getting lines of demarcation as smooth as I like.Comment
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Nice job. I like your colors a little better than the studio - they're more vivid. The cyclops eye, is it there or was that all freehand in the studio job? I can't see any hint of it on your WIPsigpic
Current WIPs: 134 Undead (Mantic) + 46 Elves (Mantic) **the last plastic minis I plan to ever do**
Next WIP: Infinity BakuninComment
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Thanks. Havent gotten that far yet but there is the cyclops eye. I,m waiting to do the fleshwork till I get more of the chest armor doneComment
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There is a way of doing it in less passes, by mixing more colours close together i.e. if getting from midtone to highlight, instead of using 4 stages extra milky, use 8 or 9 stages in thicker paint. Then glaze back every 2 or 3 transitions, before moving on.Originally posted by jcichon View Post
By being that little bit thicker, the time aspect isn't such an issue.
Contrast is almost the ONLY thing with NMM. You need to get from near black to near white in a really short space. Also, it can be counter-intuitive in that light gathers away from the top quite often, unlike a surface (like skin for instance) which is more matte. You have to bend the rules at times though and you pretty much have to divide the part into individual areas to make it work.
The issues mentioned above I would agree with, but one of the main issues is also that the smoothness of the blends has made the metal look "soft", so you need to add "sharp" edges to make it work.
Good luck!
CMON Gallery /
Me on Putty&Paint/ Wamp Gallery / Black Hand Painting Blog Originally posted by TheProdigalGamer
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Thanks! I wish I could find a really good youtube video of doing NMM. I learn more by watching than reading but really havent found one out there plus a good color mix for silver and goldNMM would help too!!! But its always a learning process!Originally posted by Iacton View PostThere is a way of doing it in less passes, by mixing more colours close together i.e. if getting from midtone to highlight, instead of using 4 stages extra milky, use 8 or 9 stages in thicker paint. Then glaze back every 2 or 3 transitions, before moving on.
By being that little bit thicker, the time aspect isn't such an issue.
Contrast is almost the ONLY thing with NMM. You need to get from near black to near white in a really short space. Also, it can be counter-intuitive in that light gathers away from the top quite often, unlike a surface (like skin for instance) which is more matte. You have to bend the rules at times though and you pretty much have to divide the part into individual areas to make it work.
The issues mentioned above I would agree with, but one of the main issues is also that the smoothness of the blends has made the metal look "soft", so you need to add "sharp" edges to make it work.
Good luck!Comment
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Sorry bro. Yes, its sculpted. I am actually getting ready to start the fleshwork now so I'll post an updated pic here in a few hoursOriginally posted by frogimus View PostComment
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ah, cool. PP seems to make a habit of "frustrating" fig's so I thought it'd be just like them to leave off that detail ;)sigpic
Current WIPs: 134 Undead (Mantic) + 46 Elves (Mantic) **the last plastic minis I plan to ever do**
Next WIP: Infinity BakuninComment
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Actually, it's really well sculpted. This is the first PP kit I have gotten and I like them a lot better than GW. I am really underimpressed with GW anymore. Not that I have painted a lot of mini's. This is like my 6th or 7th mini I have ever done as I have always done large scale historical kits. I doubt I will ever buy another GW kit again unless its 90% off!!Originally posted by frogimus View PostComment
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Assembly is usually the more frustrating area for PP. I've had to use a lot of putty on warbeasts (carnivean, dire troll mauler, and feral warpwolf). They're a treat to paint afterwards though.
Never had a GW mini. Unless the old (1980's) Citadel lead countssigpic
Current WIPs: 134 Undead (Mantic) + 46 Elves (Mantic) **the last plastic minis I plan to ever do**
Next WIP: Infinity BakuninComment
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Dont worry, you aint missing anything!! THeir finecasts are total crap. Their old metal models are good but skip the finecast stuff.Originally posted by frogimus View PostComment
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