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Playing with Green Metallics for Necrons and Salamanders Space Marines

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  • #16
    What? I get a result I actually find quite promising and my batteries run out?

    Noooooooooo

    Well, if I can find some cheap batteries I will buy them. Basically this time around I got the metallic shine I wanted without the dirty look.

    On a side note, mixing gw washes into your original paint seems to work quite well, nice, subtle effect!

    I put my old necrons next to my new one to compare, it's like night and day. I can't see the details on my old one on a gaming table. On the new one I can see all the detail from 3 feet away and at around 8-9 feet away I can still see some of those details.

    Will put up a pic once I get some batteries.
    The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
    Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
    My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
    Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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    • #17
      comparative shot with the new style on the left and one of the old styles on the right. Will give different angles so you can properly see the shading/highlighting on the new one. Bear in mind some of the details aren't done yet, and I am likely to change his head to something else as I think it clashes with the green.

      Came out quite a bit brighter than expected but should look good in a group I hope.

      Jason's New 004.jpg

      Edit: for the sake of posterity (IOW so I don't forget)
      1. Mix 2 parts Cam Light Green VMA, 1 part VMA Gold, 1 part GW Dark Green Ink (yes I managed to procure some, and Vallejo has an exact color match)
      2. Basecoat all of the green areas with the above. Do not add water at this time, it goes on smooth and thin as it is in one or two coats.
      3. For shading mix in Badab black to the above (yes, a wash) in gradual steps.
      4. For highlighting make the original mix again and add one drop of VMA Yellow and one drop of VMA Bright brass, water down and gradually highlight.
      5. Extreme highlight certain areas with pure VMA bright brass, this will pop some details making it look good from a distance.
      Last edited by Spectral Dragon; 04-11-2011, 02:51 pm.
      The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
      Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
      My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
      Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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      • #18
        Good start! I like the new color scheme better than the old ones. Just some advice to think about: maybe paint the rods red as there is a difference in tint and the transparency to the hose and also add some highlights to the red too. As for the brass head, keep in mind that the necron elites tend to have a different color head so maybe the brass would fit them better and stay with green for the warriors heads. For the base, go dark as it will be a nice contrast to the lighter tones of the necrons.


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        • #19
          Originally posted by LOBO View Post
          Good start! I like the new color scheme better than the old ones. Just some advice to think about: maybe paint the rods red as there is a difference in tint and the transparency to the hose and also add some highlights to the red too. As for the brass head, keep in mind that the necron elites tend to have a different color head so maybe the brass would fit them better and stay with green for the warriors heads. For the base, go dark as it will be a nice contrast to the lighter tones of the necrons.
          Advice that I will certainly bear in mind as it fits very well with what I want to do with them!

          I am actually thinking of going with one of my old ideas and giving them a white faceplate, only weathered. It would add detail on an otherwise old and well-known model. We will see how it looks.

          As for the tube, I am trying to make it look like a liquid rather than energy. I agree on the highlights, perhaps I should glaze it and see how it looks.

          A darker base is certainly something I will try! Imagine if you will a horde of these guys, if they were packed close together like in one of the old black and white pics then you would need to put a lot of focus on the outer details and the top, and darken the inner layers and the bottom in order to make each individual stand out and make the group as a whole look good. So certainly the darker base will help with this!
          The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
          Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
          My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
          Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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          • #20
            If you wanted the tubes to look liquidy, maybe try casting the gun arm/tube in transparent red resin!


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            • #21
              Originally posted by LOBO View Post
              If you wanted the tubes to look liquidy, maybe try casting the gun arm/tube in transparent red resin!
              ....all I am missing is food coloring! This is tempting indeed. Lots of extra work, but may try it on one to see how it looks.

              Unless your just saying throw a layer of resin on top?

              Nah, I may just replace the tube with clear red resin.
              EDIT: on second thought, should try both techniques.

              If I was careful, I could do a special glow effect between the ribs using this technique too, that's tempting as well. That, however, would likely not be red, but blue.
              Last edited by Spectral Dragon; 04-11-2011, 03:57 pm.
              The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
              Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
              My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
              Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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              • #22
                if you still have a warrior on sprue, cast it as is so you will have a whole warrior in transparent resin. Then just paint the metal parts and use masking fluid on the parts you want to glow/be transparent. Might look good.


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                • #23
                  Originally posted by LOBO View Post
                  if you still have a warrior on sprue, cast it as is so you will have a whole warrior in transparent resin. Then just paint the metal parts and use masking fluid on the parts you want to glow/be transparent. Might look good.
                  Nah, got plenty of warriors and honestly I gotta keep away from GW sharks, considering I am trying to start a miniature wargame business of my own.

                  Still, if one wanted to be adventurous, one could throw LED's in said transparent warrior while the cast was still curing.......
                  The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
                  Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
                  My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
                  Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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                  • #24
                    Unless you are going to use them as display, using LED into gaming minis is a fad and a pain in the a$$ to change all those batteries. Hey look, my necron monolith lost power, wait I have to change the battery, OK role again, LOL.


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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by LOBO View Post
                      Unless you are going to use them as display, using LED into gaming minis is a fad and a pain in the a$$ to change all those batteries. Hey look, my necron monolith lost power, wait I have to change the battery, OK role again, LOL.
                      Easy enough to change if the batteries are under the base. Button cells last a long time anyhow.

                      Also totally worth it, IMO. I never saw anyone pull it off with an entire army.

                      Not saying I am going to do it, I want mine to have the perfect paint job not a gimmick.

                      One thing I AM thinking about doing is sculpting extra details on them to make them look much more like the dawn of war warriors, which are far more interesting IMO, and using blue stuff to cast the parts directly onto the models.

                      Dawn of war models have extra details on the head, neck, and under the torso.
                      Last edited by Spectral Dragon; 04-11-2011, 04:35 pm.
                      The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
                      Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
                      My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
                      Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I do like this look for the monolith with LED's
                        http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2011/...-monolith.html
                        Last edited by LOBO; 04-11-2011, 04:45 pm.


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                        • #27
                          I do love that! the lightning effect is especially cool. Too bad he wasn't able to do it in the crystal though.
                          The WAMP Wiki - A community driven repository aimed at the whole miniature painting community. Contributions can be made directly in the Wiki or by contacting the admin team here .
                          Full Metal Dragon - A miniature/wargame/RPG/general entertainment business.
                          My WIP Thread with a little bit of everything in it.
                          Mini's painted in 2014: 0 / In progress - 5 (2 gaming mini's, 3 display mini's)

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