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Privateer Press Troll WIP

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  • Privateer Press Troll WIP

    Hey, I am also entering this for the March privateer press contest over on the local SWAMP board. It's a Dire Troll Mauler. I wanted to paint up a big model with lots of flesh work and I also wanted to take a break from metal. This one fit's the bill. A couple firsts for me on this one, I started painting the flesh from the mid tone, then shaded, then highlighted. It's a WIP, and I am not done with the belly areas and some work on the forearms and hand's will be done adding a different color. The "Underbelly blue" I think from the 6 pack of P3 colors. This is my first try using the P3 colors and I'd rate them the same as GW. Good, but I prefer the dropper style bottles TBH. I might pick up a few of their other boxed sets after this is done.

    For this model I am painting it as close to the box art as possible. I have no clue about PP fluff and didn't want to make any attempt at originality as this guy is going on eBay 5 seconds after I am done, and I wanted to keep him sellable. Also, it's nice every now and again to just not worry at all about picking out a color scheme and just painting. Here's the pic's....

    What I have done so far is ap0plied the base of Trollblood skin tone in about 5 thin layers. About 2:1 water paint, not incredibly thin but I wanted to get started! From their I applied quicly a full strength glaze of pure GW blue wash into the recesses. I wasn't all that careful about placement as I knew I would be going back to the mid tone quickly. After that I went with pure GW purple wash into some of the deeper recesses like the face and some of the areas of the arms. Then I tried to tidy the mid tone up with trollblood again, using about 3:1 water paint in about 4 passes. All of this was done as quickly as possible, and I busted out the size 3 brush for this one. It was nice to finally use that brush, it's been eyeballin' me! After that the first highlight was layered on with 1/2 trollblood and half of the greyish trollblood highlight mixed at about 3:1 water:paint. This was 2 layers, going up to 5 or 6 in some of the bigger areas that I though would catch more light. Then I did a highlight of pure trollblood highlight at about 3:1 on some of the larger areas again. About 3 layers tops.

    At this point I realized how grainy and crappy the skin was looking. I was going to fast, for sure. If you're going for the thin paint, mutiple layers you need to make time for it so you don't get streaky looking results! Well.... I didn't. From primer to the point I am talking about had been about 2 1/2 hrs over two sessions. Probably 2-3 times that amount should have been set aside for such a big model.

    So...... What to do. I thinned some GW blue wash down about 5:1 (It's thin allready so this would be about 15:1 paint I guess) and applied about 4 or 5 glazes over the model. I think it helped, but you can still find streaks, in real life especially, but I am happy enough to move forward.

    -----Question------ What would you guys have done to solve the problem? Restarted? Repainted the last couple steps? I am curious to see if people have different answers.

    And that's where I am at. As a learning model I am decently happy with it to this point. I will revesit the extreme highlights in places and more importantly I am going to add some orange-brown to some of the shading. I thought of this way back when someone on another board was trying to yell at me about color theory and then I noted in the studio paint job they've done that exact thing so I'll give it a shot.

    Okay, fire away! Thanks for any help and advice!
    "Who needs weights? Animals don't lift weights, and animals are STRONG!"
    -Chuck "the Truck" Wallace

  • #2
    It's looking good but i think some of your transitions are a bit too quick and not smooth enough as you have said. Maybe you need to water down your glazes a bit for a truly smooth transition. I find with glazing you really do need to be patient with the technique to get it smooth. I've been practicing it myself lately and i actually prefer using paint as the glaze pigment rather then inks. I find with inks you need to water them loads more then paint.

    This model's blues were glazed. I started with base coat of enchanted blue and then used midnight blue and watered that down about 15:1 ish so that it looked like an ink but when you put the brush along the model it just appears wet more then coloured.

    Thats half the challenge i think, not expecting quick results. One other thing i might recommend is to do the model in sections rather than rushing the whole thing at once and let the layers dry. Just bear in mind im still learning the technique too so im sure others can offer some helpful insight.

    Im not sure restarting the model might be the right way i think its still salvageable. But you are at an early stage so you could redo.


    • #3
      That is some nice work there Arctica. Very nice and very smooth.

      My biggest enemy is patience. I need to learn to take the right amount of paint off the brush to apply it as you've done. It's happened to me a couple fo times, and the right amount of paint on the brush is such an awesome feeling, but for some reason it's hard for me to get right.

      I can't start from scratch. I would rather finish it to an inferior standard and move on and apply the new info to the next one. I just gotta try and make this one work. I am under a deadline of Mar 30th for the local contest and challenge vs. Carson G.

      I'm gonna try to work the belly areas as you've described. Much appreciated!
      "Who needs weights? Animals don't lift weights, and animals are STRONG!"
      -Chuck "the Truck" Wallace


      • #4
        It's looking great for such a small amount of time invested [envious...]. Pretty much agreeing with Arctica but a few general points (theory based and/or IMO):-

        You want the shaded/recessed areas to naturally be less important/visible to the eye so you shouldn't call attention to them (which is why you should beware straight black for shading, by the way - it jumps into eyes like nothing else, as I'm sure you, personaly, already know).

        Inks/washes are more vibrant and glossy than the paint you use on the highlights so the eye goes straight to them - best to mix the inks/washes with the paint you're also using, or just not use inks/washes for shading [I only ever use them to add saturation or smoothness to the areas around the highlights that the eye should go straight to]. You want the mini to look like a coherent whole so it's best to use the same stuff to paint it with all over.

        Warm colours also jump out at the eye, so I'd make sure to use plenty of blue in your orange/brown shading. By the same token, you could also add a tiny bit of pink to your highlights - but it'd have to be so little that the effect is subliminal; guessing you don't want a pink troll :P ....

        Multiple thin washes are the way forward. Washing fairly carefully with some glaze medium in the barely-coloured water can give a smoother transition from the mid to darkest areas. The bad news is that you're talking at least 5-10 washes - the good news is that you can use a hair-dryer to take drying time down to almost nothing [and speed up GS curing time so you can get more layers on in a day :D :D :D ].

        Just some theory and practical stuff to experiment with - some of it's about 50 times easier said than done and I'm not trying to come across as a master or anything; by god, I'm still struggling to apply half of this!...


        • #5
          I wouldn't worry about the patience side of things too much Scott, thats something you learn by yourself over time, its taken me about 2 years to be patient enough to sit down and paint ;) lol.

          Following v22TC's comments with cooler shading you can always try a purple on the blue mix or for warmer shades to use a creamy yellow colour like bronzed flesh or bleached bone, they will help give your model more depth. I have only just started introducing these tones to my work but its good fun to try different things. But as your model goes i do think its recoverable :)


          • #6
            Oh yeah, the model's totally recoverable - no doubt! - it's a great foundation already.

            PS I'd do something about that join on his arm (left arm as you're looking at it in the back shot). A few coats of thick brush-on primer (hair-dried between coats to speed drying up) and a light filing/sanding once dried should sort it out with minimum upset to your paintjob.


            • #7
              Good points, and the arm join thing kind of pissed me off as I couldn't see it after spray priming. Brush on primer... good idea! I'll have to play around with the suggestions for pink and flesh type colors fo rthe body. Thanks guys!
              "Who needs weights? Animals don't lift weights, and animals are STRONG!"
              -Chuck "the Truck" Wallace