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Hooded Rider WIP for my Ladder Match with ScottRadon

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  • TheBugKing
    replied
    Hey folks!

    Thanks for all the replies! I took the thing into the LGS last night and heard the same things from the Peanut Gallery. So with a subtle wash of VMG Smoke the tanner look that you all suggested was achieved. As for the Pastel Green, that is the start of an OSL look for the ribs. The ribs themselves will be picked out and be quite dark. (Started this and breaking up the bright green really solves the composition issues I think. As for the cloak, that is just a single base coat and the first glaze. It will wind up a deep brown to look like leather.

    On the base, I agree that the yellow on one side is too bright. I'll be toning it down a bit to fit the look a bit better. I managed to get about 80% of the water effects done last night too. (And got a game in! Busy night!)

    I'm now off to a tournament. Wish me luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • Orki
    replied
    I'm definitely diggin it! The tones on the rider have yet to come together, but no matter what the outcome, if it needs fixing then more devlan mud will always work. It's the gaffa-tape of painting!

    Leave a comment:


  • three little pigs
    replied
    Apologies found info on the 2nd page of the thread.

    3LP

    Leave a comment:


  • three little pigs
    replied
    I know from the responses so far that not too many are wrapped in the model but Im digging it, so tell, who what where?
    The paint job is really impressive so far, hey man I'm just digging it all, groovey! :coool!:

    3LP
    Last edited by three little pigs; 19-02-2011, 02:11 pm.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeatPete
    replied
    looking good man! Good suggestions above, but coming along really nicely ambrose.

    Leave a comment:


  • thetang22
    replied
    I'll be honest Bug, I didn't notice the skin was painted upon first look. It was so light on my screen that it looked so close to the white that I couldn't distinguish it. I would agree with Shane on the coloring of it though if you are going for a deathly pale skin. Examples that come to mind would be the Kelt Drunes from Rackham. Most of those models were usually displayed with that same idea for the skin.

    Here are a few examples (they aren't all very pale):
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/index/w...kham/id/228156

    http://www.coolminiornot.com/index/w...kham/id/189097

    http://www.coolminiornot.com/index/w...kham/id/100126 (palest of the group)

    Leave a comment:


  • Orki
    replied
    I've missed pretty much all of this thread!

    Comin on nicely so far, though I will say that if your making something like this as a cutaway of a bigger imaginary peice, then it should be made so that the veiwer immediately knows and can distinguish what the cutaway is, and what a 'real' edge is. If the veiwer isnt presented with this, and can't work it out subconciously within a nanosecond then the effect will be lost, and peeps will wonder why and how the platform is suspended by the water.

    I'd go back to those cutaway edges iof the walkway and make them anything but the straight 90 deg cuts as they are. To everybody that hasnt seen this thread they will apear to be intentionally made that way in your mini world, despite any painting you do to help show the contrary.

    The classic engineers wavey edge would work really well here.

    Leave a comment:


  • War Griffon
    replied
    Like the way the base is coming along but I think the yellow of the hazard stripes are still a bit bright for something with that much rust on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • shanerozzell
    replied
    The base is really coming on great But I slightly agree with thetang22 about the cloak and skin. Personall I see big muscly guy in fantasy generally as well tanned because of the absence of Gyms and other indoor excersize opportunities. If you're going for a deathly pale skin then shade with greens, blues and purples. JMO
    The Metals look very nice but to go with the overall death, rot, perstilance theme why not add some brown washes.

    Leave a comment:


  • thetang22
    replied
    The base really is going to be one of those fantastic pieces. The concept is very interesting and is turning out great.

    I've been impressed with a lot of the work you've done on the rider/horse so far, but the 2 newest additions I'm not as crazy about. The cloak on the rider doesn't look bad by itself, but being next to the skin of the horse doesn't work for me. The reason is that the colors clash in a weird way. They are too close in color, but still slightly different, and that presents an awkward balance. The same thing for the pastel green on the ribcage. Having it as a pastel green has an awkward contrast to the earthy reds of the muscles.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheBugKing
    replied
    So...

    Some progress. Thanks for all the help with the rust folks. I've got it now I think. Started on the water effects. Also laid down some paint on the figure! Got the flesh done and the head mostly done. I also started with the ribcage. Going to go glowey green so i can do a bit of OSL. Eyes of the rider and the horse will also glow green. YAY!

    PICS! (Please tear it apart as usual. Saying it's great is nice and all but if there is an issue please say it. It's ever so helpful!)

    First, a step by step for the water effects. (Note that I need to put on about 5 more layers on the spouts and then poor the base. Lots to do still!)





    And the result of the epoxy for the night:



    The painting so far:





    Thanks all!

    TBK

    Leave a comment:


  • Captain Sprout
    replied
    I think the little light bits in the rust are a bit too big and uniform and if you make them a little more random and dull them down a tad they will complement the rust not make it look a bit flat. In contrast the metal rust effect on the plates without the yellow stripe look a great colour.

    Leave a comment:


  • War Griffon
    replied
    I think you need to lose the dark lines around the hatching as I feel it is these that are making it cartoonish, do you have any of the MIG Pigments?
    Or the Lifecolour rust set?

    Once the black lines are painted out I would use a combination of pigments to blend in the hatching to the rust areas.

    If you have the Lifecolour rust set then there is an excellent method that comes with it to do rust starting off light and going right through to a heavily rusted area.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheBugKing
    replied
    All right. A bit more painting done...

    But now I'm unhappy with the results. The rust on the caution area just doesn't look right. Too cartoony and for the life of me I can't figure out what to do. So I turn to you lot. Please help? Suggestions and even more detail techniques would be most welcome.

    Thanks folks! (I need to beat Scot! My ego will not survive otherwise! <yeah, totally not true! But it sounds good right?>)

    Leave a comment:


  • TheBugKing
    replied
    Originally posted by War Griffon View Post
    Was just checking

    Working with salt, fresh, chilled and other liquid systems for the last 34 years I didn't want to see a nice base ripped apart by technicrats
    I happen to be one of those technocrats. :D So I try to make sure that my work holds up for the most part. Magic comes into play once in a while but the more believable a piece is in real life physics the better it comes across.

    Thanks for the heads up though. It is really appreciated.

    Leave a comment:

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