Sign Up Now FAQ
Signup Now
Come on sign up, you know you want to. It's free and easy and you get to be even more awesome!
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Deep Water on a Round Base

      
   
  1. #1

    Super Wamp
    Cregan Tur's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NC, USA
    Posts
    2,453
    Blog Entries
    1

    Deep Water on a Round Base

    Searching around hasn't yielded any results, so I'm asking for a bit of help.


    I'm working on an ambitious project that involves a large diorama on a round wooden base. I'm going to be adding water effects to create a river that's going to be 1-2" deep (depth is controlled/determined by how high different areas of the river bed are).


    I know I've seen a tutorial where someone did a water base on a round socket, but I cannot find it anywhere. By biggest concerns are:
    1) making the mold around the base water tight and strong enough to hold in the product
    2) looking for products that work in a single deep pour- someone used a product that wasn't a typical clear resin and they were able to do a very deep base in a single pour.


    Anyone have links to resources like this?
    http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/.../ST_banner.gif

    This Writer's Journey

    If wishes were fished we'd all cast nets. - Gurney Halleck


  2. #2
    I like to French Kiss Racoons
    Wamp Apostle
    NeatPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    NW USA
    Posts
    8,759
    Blog Entries
    1
    Could you find a section of PVC with the radius of the base? Pour in that? Pretty sure that common two part would work for 1-2"(Envirotex?) It gets hot, so I would recommend thick PVC. You could also pour off the base and when its cured, put it on the base

  3. #3

    Super Wamp
    Cregan Tur's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NC, USA
    Posts
    2,453
    Blog Entries
    1
    I'm going to have to pour onto the existing base. PVC is a good idea- I could section a pipe to make what I need and fill in any gaps with plasticard backed with non-drying clay.
    http://www.stonetowerminiatures.com/.../ST_banner.gif

    This Writer's Journey

    If wishes were fished we'd all cast nets. - Gurney Halleck


  4. #4
    I'd use a plastic foil for overhead projectors to form the walls of the mould. I used them for casting rivers on my modular table - no reason it shouldn't work when doing round casts.

    the "seams" where the foil meets the base I'd cover with a thin layer of Extra Heavy Gel by Vallejo. just so it seals any possible gaps. when it dries it dries clear so it won't be visible.

    the resin I use is good for a single layer deep casts. It's called Gedeo Crystal Resin. it comes in a clear form, but also tinted versions (like emerald which is great for rivers if there's lot of grass on the shores, or even trees). but the clear version can be tinted by hand using Pebeo Vitrail colours.

    anyway, here is the link to my river sections WIP thread:
    http://www.wampforum.com/VB4/showthread.php?t=13622

    hope it helps
    The best thing my mates & I have done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWG9MFQ6Tcs




    Me on Putty&Paint

  5. Loving your work This user likes what you had to say. Good on Ya! ub3r_n3rd
  6. #5

    Wamp Incarnate
    Darklord's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Hutton Cranswick, East Yorkshire
    Posts
    27,215
    Blog Entries
    18
    I would follow Demons advice
    Available for Commissions Like my Facebook Page: Brett Johnson Designs

    Shop at the Wampstore Wamp Corporate

  7. #6
    You are in the US, so Hobby Lobby's carry a product called "EnviroTex Lite". It's a pour on finish for wood, but it works pretty well for deep/large water effects too. Whatever you use, I'd suggest testing your dam materials with a small test pour, over something similar to your rivers just to be safe before trying it on your river sections!

  8. #7
    Blast from the past! (For this of you around a long time)

    Poor On's Envirotex Light works really well for deep water poors. Simple packing tape will work just fine as a resist for the edge. Just be sure that the sticky side is away from the resin. As for tinting, using artist ink works great. Be sure to mix the tint in before you poor it though. (Unless you are doing a swamp and want traces of algae and the like)

    I use 5 minute epoxy to "Seal" the edges before the poor though. It is much more viscous and will not seep into cracks if you have made a mistake.

    As for the round, that does present a bit of a challenge. Supporting the packing tape with popsicle sticks would work. It will sag under the weight of the resin so supporting it is a must.

    One final note: The deepest poor I have done with Envirotex is about 1" over approximately 3 square feet. It kicks really really quick when it is deep like that. Not the suggested 1 hour or so. More like 5 minutes.

  9. Loving your work This user likes what you had to say. Good on Ya! vegascat
 

 

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •