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Stuff making live- Hills

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Since I seem to be able to at the very least start doing stuff when I do live updates I'll try this as I've decided to make hill sections for my testing table.
Goal of the day is to make hill sections covering 38,7" (98cm-isch) with an average depth of 20-35 cm (roughly 8-12")with inclines, slopes and the like.
These are meant to be stackable, light and hard without cheating and using epoxy or other resins.
Main materials used will be at least two squeeze bottles of classroom sized indoor PVA watered down with four-five ml of nasty dollar store toxic acrylics.
Plastic bags, plaster, some styrofoam angles (regular white fridge type) paper tissues and the heavy newpaper material companies use to pack books in nowadays.
Other items making a guest appearance today will be cheap masking tape, crc's excellent matte black spray paint, greenstuff, and a massive drybrush (even a pebble or two if I'm arsed to go outside.)
and gloves. wear gloves, you dont want fingerprints in your atlas mountain range.


Find yourself a box, a box you can be proud of.
In my case I've used multiple A4 ich office supply boxes of varying depth as I can stack three of them in the boxes I get from my online bookstore of choice. wrap it in plastic, in my case I wrapped it in a plastic bag after I made sure the box is square and whatever shape or slope is added to the construct that I feel is neccessary for the moment I then proceeded to tape it down on the work area (if using your kitchen table now would be the time to get proper masking tape as the cheap stuff will leak.)
Smear all the surfaces you want to use with profuse amounts of vaseline and add the first layer of watered down PVA:

Step 1: Baselayer

The idea is to create a PVA laminate that won't flex in the manner of for example papier Maché (Other than the fact that paper-mache is craft and sh*t we don't do craft we do WAR, and and ART, we call it WART )
Make sure the paper if fully saturated and add more PVA where needed.
(in this hill I'm using the heavy packing paper for this)
I also missed the vaseline insulation which will come back and bite me when I'm good and done and trying to peel it off.


If you want it to line up now is when you fold the corners.
otherwise don't. you want a saturation level that makes if lay flat where you want it and fold where you want it but still makes you go 'whoa! that looks totally natural and stuff' if theres enough glue left floating around to drip down on the table you are overdoing it.

Start rubbing, you want to get rid of the man made precision fold seams and separations between the first few layers and the underlying material as we will only be reinforcing and building on them with any further layers we add. We do this by rubbing the ripped edges and folds until the fibers open up and overlap as this is cleaner, more precise and in the end will look better than doing it with sandpaper when dry (removing material weakens the structure while the locked fibers and PVA strengthens it) above the overlap is only seen as a hairline fracture not uncommon on larger pieces of rock, while in the picture below it is barely visible.


remember you don't want paper paste for this you just want the fibers to open up enough to lock on as a single piece when dry.

Step 2: Core

Having made sure that I've got the corners to line up the way I want to
I cover the entire structure in yet more PVA and remove whatever lint blobs thats been left on the surface.

Spread a paper tissue layer all over the PVA covered area and rub out any air bubbles and dry areas, make sure to separate the layers of the napkin/tissue if it's a three ply, we don't want to add matter we just want the reinforcement the PVA drenched fibers grant the plaster.

Add a layer of plaster that's just below or on the viscosity level of casting.
Add the second ply of tissue and PVA until you feel satisfied with the structural integrity of your piece. The reason we use plaster at all is that it sets long before the PVA and doesn't get distorted. as well as granting the structure some rigidity. In this case having the wet tissue fibers dissolve in the plaster is a good thing. Although as with anything there isnt really any particular need to over do it.

With the piece finished at a level you feel comfortable with seal it up in multiple layers of PVA (you did colour your PVA right?)
after reinforcing whatever areas that might be left using the same technique as before or if your more comfortable with that patch it with greenstuff, prefered method here when dry.
set it aside to dry after making sure you've sealed all the pores
and repeat from Preparation until sated/bored.

That's the lower tier of hill two finished and set aside to dry.
Meaning the next update will cover painting?

Before I break for eats there is a couple of points that might be worth mentioning to anyone meandering in to read this before I'm finished:
As you might notice I haven't really made contact with the actual table on any edge other than the front this is due to the fact that paper likes to distort and using massive amounts of plaster on the edges kind of defeats the purpose (heavy terrain is just as bad as large terrain with no hope of logical storage.)
instead I let gravity sort it out for me and add whatever base support needed when it's time to blend it with the board.

Updated 12-05-2011 at 06:47 PM by MonkeyShaman

Painting , Gaming , Conversion , Real Life