View Full Version : Challenge Sapo - Step by Step

19-01-2014, 10:57 PM
Hey Wampers,

Welcome to the Challenge Sapo step by step that we mentioned would accompany the main challenge. This morning I spent a couple of hours getting him ready, with the preparation and undercoating. This stage is really important as without a great starting point everything else is going to be difficult at best and will undoubtedly compromise the final peice.

To start with I study the bust from lots of angles trying to find those mold lines and air bubbles. However I must say that Sapo is virtually perfect with just a couple of tiny areas to sort out.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a059.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a059.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a057.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a057.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a055.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a055.jpg.html)

Using a scalpel I carefully scrape off the mold lines and bits of flash in the areas shown. I use a sideways scraping motion lightly and go about it carefully as not to make bigger problems than I'm trying to solve. For the bottom I cut slivers off and finished it off with a standing stick.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a063.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a063.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a065.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a065.jpg.html)

Once that's finished it's time to give him a wash. Using hand soap and a toothbrush I give him complete going over making sure to get into all the small detail. Once again it's important to go easy as we don't want anything broken. In cleaning him we make sure all the mold release agent is removed, if we didn't there would be a chance that the paint wouldn't stick properly.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a076.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a076.jpg.html)

Once the soap is washed off and he's nice and dry it's time to pick a base for him. Routing through my box of bases I found this shaped one that seems to mirror his form nicely, it seems to add balance to him. Drilling a hole in the dead center first I then stick in some brass rod. Sticking some blu tack on his base I line him up where I want him and push down onto the blu tack to mark the position where I want to drill him.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a079.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a079.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a082.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a082.jpg.html)

As you can see from the picture the hole doesn't end up in the dead centre as you'd expect, but as I've lined it up I know it's where I want it. I then glue the brass rod into the bust with super glue, I wont stick him in the base at this stage as I don't know yet if I want to paint it black or leave it wooden.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a085.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a085.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a090.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a090.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a091.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a091.jpg.html)

What's interesting at this stage is that I can see that his face is slightly canted to one side and isn't fully straight on. Straight away my feeling is that I'll use this slight angle when I come to start painting him, making one side either brighter or warmer than the other to add extra interest.

19-01-2014, 11:54 PM
I'm ahead of ya John but can't post wip pics until I get my laptop back in a couple of weeks! So far it's been a joy to paint :)

20-01-2014, 12:07 AM
I'll see if I can catch up ;)

20-01-2014, 01:02 AM
Mine arrived yesterday!

21-01-2014, 04:23 PM
You lucky guys, you get a huge head start :) This thread reminds me I have to sort out a base..

22-01-2014, 11:49 PM
Ok we're onto the priming stage.

Over the last few minis I've made the move from using cans of primer (Mr Hobby, Tamiya etc..) to using my airbrush.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a093.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a093.jpg.html)

I've found that the AK interactive primers are excellent, I'm applying them straight from the bottle with no thinning and never had a problem. The reason for picking this method is that by doing things this way it is much more controllable. With the cans for primer I found myself being quite ham fisted and often sprayed way too much sometimes hiding much of the finer detail whereas with the airbrush I can easily control things a great deal more. It's more time consuming for sure but I think it's worth the extra effort. However don't worry if you don't have an airbrush, cans work well if you're careful (and this is the only stage I'll use an airbrush on this bust) but the same principal applies with the grey and white.

Before I spray the mini I will try things out first just to make sure that things are working as expected.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a094.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a094.jpg.html)

I use grey all over and give it a couple of thin coats making sure I get into all the nooks and crannies. It can be difficult to see as it's grey primer on grey resin but a good light helps. The following picture is the result from this first stage.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a096.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a096.jpg.html)

Next I stray white from the top and high angles as shown in the following picture.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a098.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a098.jpg.html)

Adding white primer from the top does two things for me: I'm going to paint this with Zenithal lighting - the following post explains this but for now all I need to say is that it helps me to see where to paint the light in the coming stages. If its white at this stage I'm going to paint it light when I come to add colour in the later stages. Secondly when I do come to paint it the white will be a nicer base to paint over for the lighter colours, the vibrancy will be higher and it will cover easier.

Once I've completed these stages I'll leave it for at least 24 hours before painting it any further. My thinking is that this lets the primer to completely go off. I have no idea if this is needed for not but it makes me feel comfortable (and gives me time to study where the grey and white areas are located).

The final results -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a102.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a102.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a103.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a103.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a105.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/a105.jpg.html)

Additionally it's worth noting that these pictures will be very useful reference shots during the later stages if I fail to understand which areas should be light and dark.

23-01-2014, 01:17 AM
I want to explain this term zenithal lighting a little more as it's relevant to why I spray white primer from the top.

In simple terms I'm going to paint the bust with the light source from the top, so in simple terms the top of his head will be the lightest and under his chin will be the darkest areas. This is easily seen in the following picture.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/light.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/light.jpg.html)

If we couple the position and direction of lighting with some tips on light placement we can think this as a European style of painting (as opposed to a UK or 'eavy metal style). It's what I do and personally I like it as it adds drama and can increase contrast.

There's not much I can add extra to these fantastic articles on the subject -



However I mentioned a couple of tips -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Zenithal2.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Zenithal2.jpg.html)

If we look at this lovely paint job from Chris / Apa / Monkeyman7X we see that the top of his head is light and his feet are almost black. This is very much a European style. So not only are will trying to paint the light direction from the top but we're also trying to get the overall scheme from light at the top to dark at the bottom just as Chris has painted.

Here's a side by side comparison of two amazing paint jobs - left European Style and right Sprockets fantastic UK / 'eavy metal style.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Zenithal3.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Zenithal3.jpg.html)

From this you can see that the overall lighting on the right is similar across the whole miniature, his feet are as bright as his head whereas on the left picture his feet are almost black and head very light.

But also notice this, where the light parts are: On the left its the upper most parts are lightest and the lower parts darkest. Whereas on the right the deepest parts darkest and the highest points lightest. Let me demonstrate this in the following diagram.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Zenithal4.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Zenithal4.jpg.html)

Having seen this check out the pictures again - can you see where the light and dark is placed. Neither is right or wrong it's just different styles.

As I said I paint in the European Style - with this in mind watch in later stages where I place the light and dark areas.

23-01-2014, 09:02 AM
Nice explanation on the zenithal lighting! (But shouldn't the 'Light' and 'Dark' tags in the European section of your diagram be switched?) I never realised the difference between EU and UK style.
I've read the 24 hour wait after priming elsewhere (I think CoolMiniorNot), so I take it it's a good practice indeed. I'm curious where you'll be going with this. I already did the priming on mine as well, using higher contrast (Black followed by White can primer), coming from his right side in a 45 angle up. I want to mimic light coming from some kind of torch/lamp while he's doing his job in the sewers. I'm not set about the hue of the light yet, as I'm planning to do the split between left and right side on some other levels as well but don't want to go too far in it either.
All things I haven't done before, so I'll be needing a lot of feedback when I get my work in progress uploaded.

24-01-2014, 12:13 AM
Ah, regarding the arrows Jona, they're referring to the position of the paint rather than the direction of light ;)

In the past I have used black and white and it worked out ok, actually if I had black primer I would probably airbrush some on from below to help the pre shading. But really I don't need to.

thats going to make for a nice concept, I'm looking forward to seeing your wip ;)

24-01-2014, 11:50 AM
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for clearing it up!

24-01-2014, 01:08 PM
Excellent write-up, John :) Really nice that you take the time yo do this in a thorough sbs, it makes this thread a great reference guide for later as well.

24-01-2014, 03:19 PM
That's a great write up! I wish mine would show up in the mail as your write up makes me want to get started so that I can follow along. To be honest, I've always wanted to try the dark and light primer thing. I've seen it in several other places, but hadn't tried it yet. I may have to go with white and black though because I'm not sure if I have a grey primer.

Thank you for the UK/USA v EU style explanation. I've seen the difference, but hadnt really connected why they are different in my head other than "EU style = darker, grittier and UK/USA style = brighter colors overall."

24-01-2014, 06:27 PM
I'd rather say it's Eavy Metal team not UK style. Plenty ppl in UK paint with zenithal lighting, and plenty ppl elsewhere paint the other way when they try to mimic EM style.

On the other note, I can't wait to see your choice of colours on the froggy John:D

29-01-2014, 03:59 AM
Looks great and thanks for taking the time for the description and example. Inspired me to break out the airbrush and try to prime like yours. Excited to follow along once I can decide on some colors!

05-02-2014, 11:17 PM
Ah, Marta is right, there's plenty of UK painters that don't paint 'eavy metal style.

After a couple of days break after finishing the Infamy miniatures Mr Toad I'm pretty much ready to start slapping paint onto Sapo, actually I'm going to start tomorrow evening. However before I do I want to mentioned my tools and method of painting as it's a good place to start.


From a brush point of view I use a Winsor and Newton Series 7 No. 1 for almost everything - actually other than some basing stuff which doesn't apply for Sapo I only use this. I've used this type of brush for the last couple of years and know how it works and I'm very comfortable with it. That's not so say they aren't other equally great brushes out there, but I've just not tried them. I guess the best advice is to use as good a brush as you can afford and keep it clean and pointy.

In the early days I used a dry palette (actually a white tile) for mixing my paints and painting from but when I got into the whole wet on wet blending (more on that in a moment) thing I changed over to a wet palette. Personally I got one off the shelf at the local art store, but it's no better and more expensive than making one yourself. If you've not used one before I highly recommend it. Here's a link to more information (thanks MV!)

I typically use Games Workshop colours, both old, very old and new. This is mainly due to me being able to pick them up locally rather than particular technical reason. However I also use Vallejo model colour (never game colour), Vallejo Air metallics, Andrea Flesh set and even some of the new Scale 75 colours. For the sake of Sapo I'll try to limit myself to just GW and possibly a few Vallejo colours so that you can easily try out the recipes without having to buy some odd assortment of paints. I'll make sure I reference exactly what I'm using in each set mind you. Here's an interesting couple of articles -

Method of Painting

Having tried many methods of the last couple of years I've really settled on using what's called the wet on wet painting method. In a sentence this is a method in which two colours are placed next to one another on the mini and whilst both are still wet they are mixed together at the transition point to blend them together. During the first painting stahge I'll show you what I mean by this. However it's explained and demonstrated extremely well (much better than I could) by Jeremie BT in his second DVD - I'd highly recommend it as it's truly excellent.

However wet on wet blending can only take you so far, so you push my painting further (in terms of colour or light/dark) I use glazes quite extensively. Once again in a sentence it's a method of using very thinned paint to apply a colour on top of an existing colour. This can be to enhance an existing colour, to add new colour or to smooth out a transition. An easy way to think of a glaze is to consider it like looking through a sheet of transparent coloured film such as you'd use in front of a camera lens. There's a lovely tutorial on Massive Voodoo but just in case I'll cover it when we get to that stage.

So typcially I'll wet on wet blend an area twice ensuring the first one is fully dry before the second. I do two passes as I often find that I don't get a smooth transition and lack the intensity of colour I want in the first pass. I then enhance this (either to increase the light dark and/or to add extra colour) with glazes. Don't worry - I'll cover this in the coming step by step.

So are you ready for some colour? :)

06-02-2014, 01:16 AM
Fantastic John and you are clearly putting a lot of effort into making this a true community learning experience. Cheers ;)

06-02-2014, 08:56 PM
I'm really looking forward to it. :smile:
It's great to get this little rundown of the material and techniques you use. I can see it will help understanding your decisions and progress updates much better.
I recently went from crap brushed and a regular (and really dirty) palette to Winsor and Newton and a homemade wet-palette, and it really does make a lot of difference, in terms of what I can do, but most of all in terms of how I enjoy painting. Really worth it, in my opinion.

07-02-2014, 07:49 AM
Huzzah, my Sapo has arrived! Lovely sculpt, I'll get it cleaned and primed this weekend.

Regarding wet-palette, I used this extensively for a while, but I have now gone back to a 'dry-palette' primed in the same way as my models. This was one of Tommie's tips, and so far I like it better, because I find it easier to control the viscosity and thin-ness of the paint. If the colour is drying out, I can add water to keep the consistency I need for the job whereas what I found with the wet-palette, is that as the paint absorbes more water from the palette it becomes thinner as I paint, if that makes sense. I do however very much second the wet-in-wet approach to applying the basecoat (and I thing JBT's video is great), and although by no means a master, I have used it to good effect so far.

Thanks for all your efforts for the benefits of all of us John :)

07-02-2014, 11:18 PM
That's interesting Endor, I bust the lid on my wet palette the other day and was forced to use a dry-palette and it drove me nuts as the paint dried out so quickly. I guess it's horses for courses!

Anyway, anyone from my facebook status would have seen that I've finally applied some paint! As a special treat to myself I popped to GW this afternoon and picked some new colours for Sapo. I decided on a green / flesh tone colour scheme - here they are for this first stage.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005-1.jpg.html)

It should be noted that I've not used the scab red just yet.

So Here's how my wet palette looks before I start any painting.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/007-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/007-1.jpg.html)

with labels -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/colours.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/colours.jpg.html)

Basically I've placed a good sized blob of each colour around my palette. Between those blobs I've mixed up an intermediate colour (in the picture the base colours have blue labels and the mixes have grey gradient labels). I've very slightly watered them down, but not much at all. The following pictures of Sapo are with just one layer - note the amount it covering as very little of the primer is showing through. When you come to paint if you're having to do loads of layers to get to the stage I'm showing below your paint is too thin! Actually I often see people that over thin their paint, I know when I was starting to paint a few years ago I fell into this trap.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/012-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/012-1.jpg.html)

Using the wet on wet blending technique I start to place the paint onto the general areas I want specific colours. Remembering the post on light I place lighter colours at the high points and darker lower down. At this stage all the paint on the mini is wet and I'm mixing them on the mini itself, going backward and forward between the different colours, mixing them all the time. Do note that I'm not highlighting and shading at this stage at all! What I'm doing is sketching the overall colour scheme, light at the top and dark at the bottom. I'll say it again I'm just sketching the base coat, I'm not adding highlights and shadows rather I'm just getting the big picture right.

These pictures show where I was at after a max of 45mins - I'm working quick as I want the paint wet, as soon as it starts to dry, I'll leave it and move onto an area that's not dried out. Wet on wet blending doesn't work if the paint is dry!

At this stage, I can't stress enough how much the JBT DVD helps to explain this technique!

Here's my wet palette at the end of this section -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/015-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/015-1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140207DSC_3405.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140207DSC_3405.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140207DSC_3408.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140207DSC_3408.jpg.html)

08-02-2014, 03:41 AM
Great start! It really shows the effectiveness of the wet-blending technique for basecoating.
Wondering a bit about the difference from the wet-blending taught by Ben Comets and Alexiz. They take the technique all the way to the finish and not only for basecoating. I find it hard though.

08-02-2014, 09:21 AM
Cheers fella, you're absolutely correct with the words base coat, as this is exactly what it is. Just like a simile single colour base coat that gets modified with light and dark in later stages I'm going to be doing the same here too. I forgot to mention that yesterday also I need to correct a few other typos in there too!

I didnt know Ben and Alexiz painted like that, if I ever have the opportunity to meet Ben again (he's such a lovely guy) I'll ask him about it. Did you catch that nougat in info via a DVD?

08-02-2014, 09:44 AM
Just a quick question: do you use any kind of drying retarder or medium when thinning your paints for this wet-in-wet-blending, or only water and paint?

08-02-2014, 10:30 AM
None at all, sometimes when I'm glazing I'll use a glaze medium but otherwise just paint and water. I should say that the whole thing isn't wet for the full 30mins, rather I got across it in sections, going from one wet spot and creating another next to it and so on. It's hard to write it but easy to do!

08-02-2014, 11:08 AM
Cheers. I might try this to bring in the first fleshtones on the lit area of mine, putting some different greens over the layer I have now to bring some more variation and blend them with the fleshtones smoothly. It looks like a very quick and fun way to get smooth transitions on your basecoat.

08-02-2014, 11:36 AM
That's for sure, it's a quick and easy way to get colour down quickly so you can visualise the overall scheme without having spent ages getting there. It hotter places wet on wet blending does become tricky as the stuff dries so quickly. I'll go over and take a look at your Jona.

08-02-2014, 05:09 PM
Im gonna watch my jbt dvd again before I go any further.:cool: will also try to add some pics of my progress using the wifes tab if it can be done :photo:

08-02-2014, 08:42 PM
This afternoon I finished applying the first base coat concentrating on his left hand side. I tied to make things a little more interesting by making this side slightly colder than the right hand side. I've done this via the addition of a small amount of Hoeth blue (GW) in each mix.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/001.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/001.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/006.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/006.jpg.html)

Using the smae method as yesterday I completed the base coat, once again just thinking about the overall scheme rather than particular highlights and shadows.

Here's the output of todays sessions.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3419.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3419.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3421.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3421.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3423.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140208DSC_3423.jpg.html)

I quite like how things are looking at the moment, the colours are quite interesting and placement of the colouts looks about right. However being self critical things seem too light at the moment, especially around the eyes and on his fat chin (there must be a name for than part of a frog!). Therefore I think I'm going in for a second round of base coat, this time bringing the dark colours higher and introducing them around his eyes.

As I mentioned yesterday this is a good stage to get things looking roughly right, changing them around is quick and easy as I've not invested a great deal on time on the tiny details just yet. So, 2nd base coat here I come....

Btw, have you any feedback so far on either the paint job or on the step by step in general?

09-02-2014, 01:20 PM
Having slept upon things (when mini painting I'll often pause for an evening for me to go back having thought things through and looking at it with a fresh set of eyes) I can't help thinking that whilst a good start he's just looking boring at the moment!

So, on my first picture of the wet palette I showed scab red. Well I broke it out and went a little crazy this morning.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/0012.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/0012.jpg.html)

And here's the result - I spent around an hour wet blending the lower right quarter of his face, adding red and much more of the dark green blue colour. See how much more interesting this is starting to look. This is as I've added extra contrast: In adding the red I'm going for colour contrast, red green. I'm also going for temperature contrast via the blue blue green and the warm red. Additionally with the extra dark colours I've increased the dark light contrast.

Painting mini's is all about creating interest and a great way of doing that is via adding contrast.

What do you think - has he improved via the addition of just one colour?

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3437.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3437.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3438.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3438.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3441.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140209DSC_3441.jpg.html)

There's still areas in that lower quarter I want to change even now - the amount of light at the front is too much, I need to reduce that somewhat. Also I what to add some green into the large pink area near the goggle strap. Otherwise I'm much happier!

This stage was almost like I'd planned the step by step this way ;)

09-02-2014, 02:40 PM
Wow nice m8, I need to do something to liven mine up but the leap of faith required is painfully hampered by indecision at the moment. This is what happens when you start off with too much source material....there's a lesson here somewhere ;/

09-02-2014, 03:06 PM
This is a great insight into how you paint mate! your sapo reminds me of Boss Nass the gungan leader from starwars lol but that a good thing Froglike with a human quality. good stuff mate and such a cool SBS look forward to more :cool:

14-02-2014, 10:19 PM
Yesterday evening and for a while today I've been continuing with the same colours and wet on wet blending. Firstly still on the big areas and then I've started to use the same technique on increasingly smaller spots. This way the picture starts to change from the overall scheme as I have been doing up to this stage and onto the next level, thinking about smaller details in terms of light and dark and colour. This stage starts to refine and smooth the blends and places I want enhance. Even though, it's still the same colours and technique.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140214DSC_3478.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140214DSC_3478.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140214DSC_3479.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140214DSC_3479.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140214DSC_3480.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140214DSC_3480.jpg.html)

15-02-2014, 12:17 AM
Some nice contrast there John and the patches are coming into thier own. My own Sapo is looking more like a common garden variety frog in comparison but there room in the comp for those too ;) I haven't looked at mine for a week so will approach it with fresh eyes tomorrow. It is a wonderful bust to paint. Hopefully getting my laptop back tomorrow so will post some shots. Shades Sapo is also looking fantastic and already it's fantastic to see everyone's interpretation.

15-02-2014, 06:05 AM
I think the sbs is cracking, John! There is a lot more to learn when someone shares the thought processes and views on what works, what doesn't, and why. I must say introducing red to the scheme made him a lot more interesting. While nice before, he did also look a bit 'bland'. But I wasn't concerned, it was still only the basecoat ;)

Regarding other painters' wetblending technique, Ben Comets was featured in a miniature mentor video where he basically showed how he applied this technique from start to finish. In the video with Alexiz I got from cmon, she demonstrates her wetblending using a dry-palette with very very tiny synthetic brushes 0/5 or something. It looked a little tedious for my taste, so I never tried her approach. No denying her great results, though.

16-02-2014, 11:54 PM
Since Friday I've spent more time, on the top of his head and on his left chin. Just like the previous steps I've used the wet blending technique and just like the earlier steps using the same colours with the Hoeth Blue added to the greens to cool them down a little. It's not really showing up. But you can get a sense of things when you look at the brightest highlights on his left chin, some are pinkish whereas others are a green blue colour. Adding the little extra variation just adds more depth and interest.

Looking at these pictures I think in the coming steps I'll cool the left side down even more, just to add variation.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140216DSC_3482.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140216DSC_3482.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140216DSC_3486.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140216DSC_3486.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140216DSC_3487.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140216DSC_3487.jpg.html)

17-02-2014, 12:38 AM
Very nice. The extra layers add a lot of richness to the skin. I especially like the variety of color in the wrinkles and rough textures.

Now I wish I had spent a little more time on mine. On the other hand, I had to pace out my motivation budget -- I'm pleased where it landed, given the time investment. But it's helpful to see your SBS, to know how much farther it can be taken, if one is willing to commit the time.

17-02-2014, 08:16 AM
These last two steps look rather subtly to the inexperienced eye, but when comparing this one to the first with the red splotches on, it's really showing how the interest and the smoothness have improved since.
Are you thinning your paints more every step to keep the ealier layers showing through, or stick to the same consistency? And as I assume you're not really going over the entire model again with every next layer (or are you?), how do you go about blending the wet paint into the dry so smoothly?

18-02-2014, 11:42 AM
Just like the other side I've continued the technique and colours but concentrating on ever smaller areas, wet blending as I go. I think I still need to make this side lighter and as for the cold thing I decided that the best way would be to glaze it in at a later stage. My reasoning is that generally I like the overall scheme and want to keep it as is as much as possible but just alter the temperature. If I was to do this via wet blending I'd have to totally repaint certain areas I don't really want to touch.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/DSC_3491.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/DSC_3491.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/DSC_3492.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/DSC_3492.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/DSC_3493.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/DSC_3493.jpg.html)

Onto Jona's questions - For all of these wet blending stages I keep the paint the same constancy, their not getting watered down any more from the first stage. Rather I'm just confining the paint to very specific confined areas, the boundaries being the wrinkle lines. So rather than painting it as a whole in these later stages I'm only painting small areas. As I know what colours and blends I applied where it's an easy job to apply the right colour over the exiting colour to make the transition from exiting paint to new paint nice and smooth. As the new colour and exiting colours are so similar (if not the same) you cant see the transition between new paint and old paint, especially as it's getting wet blended into a different colour anyway. Wow, that was wordy - does that make any sense at all?

18-02-2014, 12:25 PM
It does. :smile:
Thanks a lot; I'm trying to keep up with your article more or less, so I'll be giving it another layer next thursday. I wasn't so certain about the reds at first, as they were concentrated too much, but it's really working out splendidly.

21-02-2014, 09:55 PM
I think I've finished with the wet blending of the skin. There's still more to do with the skin mind you, but the next stages will be glazing and then a few highlights and extra shadows. However before I do that stage I'm going to paint the leather and shoulder pads (it's also at this stage I crave using a different colour too!). Anyway, before getting onto those stages here's where I'm at....

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140221DSC_3494.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140221DSC_3494.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140221DSC_3495.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140221DSC_3495.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140221DSC_3496.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140221DSC_3496.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140221DSC_3497.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140221DSC_3497.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140221DSC_3498.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140221DSC_3498.jpg.html)

22-02-2014, 01:20 PM
It's astounding how much fine detail and strong contrasts you achieve using this technique.
I tried focussing on smaller areas with the wet-in-wet blending yesterday (pictures next week I hope), but in the end I kept either ruining my transitions or painting midtones over highlights again. I think I'll be mostly using layering and glazing for the smaller things, as it's proving much more difficult than it looks. :smile:

22-02-2014, 05:48 PM
this is looking perfect!! your technique is awesome MegaZ blackglove

22-02-2014, 09:16 PM
Thanks lads :), Jona it's just a matter of practice and very careful brush control at those tiny levels I guess. I'm positive you'll get there though, it's just doing the same but on a macro scale. But use the tools you're comfortable with and practice with new ones in the background.

I decided to play with some leather traps this afternoon ;) For leather I use a two stage approach, wet on wet blending for the base coat following by a couple of washes / glazes and edge highlights. The following pictures are for just stage one so you get the idea before I crack on a finish those parts. I'm pretty sure I painted the goggles lens holder parts leather when they should be metal - I can correct that later!

For this stage I used 4 colours - those should below and for the lightest parts a dab of screaming skull too.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/002-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/002-1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/004-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/004-1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140222DSC_3505.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140222DSC_3505.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140222DSC_3506.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140222DSC_3506.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140222DSC_3507.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140222DSC_3507.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140222DSC_3508.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140222DSC_3508.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140222DSC_3509.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140222DSC_3509.jpg.html)

For this stage it's important to respect the light and dark areas and not worry too much if the transitions are so smooth, it's going to be knackered leather after all. Notice that there's a highlight on the convex and concave parts of the strap on top of his his, it's easy to forget the concave one as it's not obvious it should be there!

22-02-2014, 09:21 PM
Looking good man!

23-02-2014, 12:52 PM
yup!! looking good!!!

You say its going to be knackered leather? will the leather not be better a little darker on the base to account for the weathering and beaten up look? or is there a shed load of shading to come to break up the base colour and the brown tone in the frog skin?

25-02-2014, 09:29 PM
Hey Normski, you're quite right! Those pictures show the leather too light and too uniform to be either leather or knackered! So the second stage addresses those particular problems.

Thus: Using Agrax Earthshade straight from the bottle I glaze the leather all over. Then repeat this over progressively smaller areas, always pulling the brush toward the area I want darkest. Once that's looking quite dark I then do the same again with Nuln Oil. I didn't count the number of layers with each colour but my guess would be 10 of each. I'm not using much paint for each layer, a good judge is that if it's not completely dry after a second or two you're using too much paint. The reason I used the word 'glaze' rather than paint in this context is that via these new shades or washes as they used to be called much of the underlying colour is still visible, these transparent paints/inks/whatever change the base colour rather than obscuring it as a layer of standard acrylic paint would do.

In many ways this is not a typical glaze as it's done with a shade/wash rather than a standard acyclic paint that's been watered down. For leather I like to do it this way as it gives the leather lots of depth and a gloss that real worn leather often has. Whereas using watered down paint gives less depth and gloss. Remember gloss / matt is another form of contrast!

Finally very fine lines of the original base colour are added to simulate cracks and tears in the surface of the leather. Try to be random and use the paint watered down so that it's not a stark line rather a hint at a crack.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3510.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3510.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3511.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3511.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3515.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3515.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3518.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3518.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3521.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3521.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140225DSC_3522.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140225DSC_3522.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/leather1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/leather1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/leather2.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/leather2.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/leather3.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/leather3.jpg.html)

26-02-2014, 07:40 PM
Nice mate! I see what ya did there!! thats pretty much what I do for leather on my minis but not as many cotes lol I can see why the base was so light now and its working very well mate!! thanks for the info, good stuff indeed.

27-02-2014, 08:17 AM
That's a great effect, for pretty straightforward techniques. It shows how much you can achieve if you know what you're doing, even without overly complicated painting methods.
What I'm wondering though: in your first post about the leather, you mentioned light reflections both at convex and concave parts; in this second step the light placement seems to have evolved more towards traditional shading in the deeper areas. Am I seeing this wrong, or is there a specific reason for this?

27-02-2014, 07:07 PM
I'll post a proper response later tonight or tomorrow Jona. But I just wanted to show you that not everything goes how you want it first time!

Here's something I was doing last night with some blues.....

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3524.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3524.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3525.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3525.jpg.html)

Tbh, I really don't like it as to my eye its over powering, distracting and too saturated a colour (I want to leave those things for his eyes!). So, this evening I'm going to redo things but slightly more desaturated this time. To achieve that I shall be mixing grey into the blues. I'll show you how and what it looks like later, of course there's no guarentee it's going to look better! :p

27-02-2014, 11:39 PM
Having changed things slightly I'm much happier - it looks better in the hand than these pictures as these are getting a bit of glare off the lights. But I hope you can see the difference that the addition of grey paint into the mix makes! Once again this is just wet blending with a few fine edge highlights.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3535.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3535.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3537.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3537.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3538.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3538.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140227DSC_3541.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140227DSC_3541.jpg.html)

Jona, to answer your question - I forgot to re-establish those concave highlights! I'll do so when I come to pick up the brush next and I'll do a close up to show you exactly where I've added them :)

27-02-2014, 11:46 PM
This should help to see the difference....

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/desaturation1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/desaturation1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/desaturation2.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/desaturation2.jpg.html)

28-02-2014, 12:01 AM
That's looking fantastic John. Glad you did the side by side pictures to show the difference.

02-03-2014, 11:30 AM
Today we're going to be painting the shoulder pad on his right hand side. I thought it would be cool to use a different technique there to add extra interest and also to try something different.

So lets bring on the weathering!

For this I'm using the following paints -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3572.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3572.jpg.html)

The first step is to wet blend the shoulder pad so that there's a nice transition from light to dark. For this I used 4 colours, incubi darkness, Loren Forest, Nurgling Green and a touch of Kommando Khaki right at the top. Nothing special here, just the same as I've already done.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/004.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/004.jpg.html)

To break up the area I decided to paint a star on there, starting with very watered down Kommando Khaki I rough out the design. It's super watered down incase I don't like it, removing it would be easy.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/007.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/007.jpg.html)

I then went over it a little heavier

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/008.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/008.jpg.html)

And as I decided I like it I filled in the shape with Dheneb Stone in a couple of layers to make sure it went on smooth.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/009.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/009.jpg.html)

To make it uniform and gritty I gave it a couple of washes of Agrax Earthshade (this ties the green and the stone colours together). Then using the corner of a sponge I dabbed a wet mix (1:1 mix of water and nurgling green with a touch of white) on in the areas I want to be weathered. This simulates undercoat of the paint and it's wet as I want the marks to be smooth and almost like a water mark.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/013.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/013.jpg.html)

Next I sponge a dry mixture (black and scorched brown 1:1 mix straight from the pot i.e. no added water) onto the weather areas. Before applying it I dab it onto a tissue to make sure I'm happy with the result. The reason this ones dry is that I want the corrosion to be sharp.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/014.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/014.jpg.html)

Then using a mixing of Nurgling green and white I carefully underline the odd part to enhance the first stage where we want undercoat showing through. Is also adds some depth to the look.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/016.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/016.jpg.html)

I then carefully dab some Beastal brown onto the larger areas of the black/brown mix, this is just to add variation.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/024.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/024.jpg.html)

The final stage is to water down some Beastal brown a great deal and pick some areas to streak to simulate rust runs. Complete this over a few layers rather than just one to add age and depth. Lastly using either a gun metal or aluminium type over (doesn't matter which) just pick up the extreme edges to show where parts are worn so much rust cannot form.

Thus we now have a corroded shoulder pad -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3573-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3573-1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3574.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3574.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3575-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3575-1.jpg.html)

Btw, the reason the pictures show up slightly differently is that the lights are different between my paint station and light box and I forgot to change my white balance settings - the final pictures are more representative!

02-03-2014, 11:34 AM
Jonas, I haven't forgotten your question regarding concave and convex shapes -

On the strap I hope you can see what I mean.....

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3576.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140301DSC_3576.jpg.html)

02-03-2014, 10:15 PM
Once again things move forward. As I'm feeling tired I'll just post some pictures for now, more pictures and write ups will follow tomorrow on what I've been doing. But for now - some metals, more leather, the cord and straps and the necklaces are all to be written up.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140302DSC_3598.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140302DSC_3598.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140302DSC_3591.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140302DSC_3591.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140302DSC_3594.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140302DSC_3594.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140302DSC_3596.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140302DSC_3596.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140302DSC_3597.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140302DSC_3597.jpg.html)

02-03-2014, 11:09 PM
John mate that Blue just blew me away, it works so well and the skin tones echo it nicely!! man thats such a cool paint job and the weathering info will come in handy mate cheers!! bloody outstanding mate!!

07-03-2014, 07:10 PM
Hey all once again. Things are progressing and I'm starting to get a back log of pictures and write ups to share with you. This evening I'm going to be writing up the following topics - Metals, String, Leather and Lenses all of which will bring us up to date.

Lets start with the leather jerkin he's wearing. I wanted to add extra variation and increase the warm / cold contrast on the mini. In the skin I'm going to do this via glazes (one of the next things i do tomorrow) but on the leather I thought i'd just go for it hence I've made two different mixes up -

On one side I mixed the browns - Dyyad Bark, Khemri Brown and Kommando Khaki with GW Scab Red to make something nice and warm.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/008-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/008-1.jpg.html)

On the other side I mixed the same browns with Hoth Blue (the lighter browns) and Incubi darkness with the darker browns to give me a cold brown mix.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005.jpg.html)

Wet blending them on to the area gave me this -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/010.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/010.jpg.html)

This was a great start but it needed more, using this as a base I then increased the leather look by painting very thin layers of Agrax Earthshade onto both sides - very little on the cold side but quite a bit on the warm. Then using a very watered down brown mix I found on my wet pallet (problably the black/brown mix from the weathering) I sponged some stains onto it using just a corner of a sponge from a miniature package. Then using watered doen mix from the base coats sponged a little more. Each sponging layer adds extra depth and interest. Finally I finished with a couple of faint lines and a final light wash of the Earthshade to give us the following look -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3609.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3609.jpg.html)

07-03-2014, 07:15 PM
For the metals it's dead easy using just the following paints -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3620.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3620.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/004-1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/004-1.jpg.html)

I mix the gunmetal with lots of black to give something way darker than the gunmetal colour. Then using wet blending again go from black through to chrome. Once dry I give it some careful thin layers of the Earthshade again. lastly to bring the brightness back out I'll re-highlight with the chrome watered down so it adds sparkle rather than totally covering the underlying paint.

Job done!

07-03-2014, 10:28 PM
For the string around his neck I used the same technique as for the leather - dryad Bark, into Khemri Brown and up to Kommando Khaki. But rather than Earthshade I just put some random angled lines of Screaming skull at lightest areas to simulate some texture to the string.

You can see it pretty well in the following snap.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3625.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3625.jpg.html)

Which brings me onto the lens. As I want the eye to be blue and the focal point I didn't really want to make the lens over powering. Given they are googles, he's a green frog I decided to make the lens very dark with a hit of green. With a lens the lighting is opposite everything else - darkest at the top and lightest at the bottom. This gives the impression that it's made of refracting glass.

Using the following colours -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3619.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3619.jpg.html)

I wet blended from black into the green, but he lens is mostly black or very dark green to be honest. I then painted a very thin line of white around the bottom and a dot just above that. Finally I painted it over with Gloss varnish to give it that glassy look. Additionally remember that gloss / matt is another type of contrast!

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3623.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3623.jpg.html)

07-03-2014, 10:29 PM
So putting all these steps together here we are fully up to date -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3616.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3616.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3617.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3617.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3618.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/140307DSC_3618.jpg.html)

07-03-2014, 11:01 PM
Good work John and fantastic support to the rest of us! Just the eyes then.. The main bit ;) I would appreciate your views on the light placement on my Sapo eyes if you have a second to nip over to my thread buddy. Cheers.

09-03-2014, 10:47 PM
Once again I'm just going to post the current position but will catch up with more wips etc... in a few days. Don't worry there's still plenty left to do before it's finished!

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140309DSC_3637.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140309DSC_3637.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140309DSC_3638.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140309DSC_3638.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140309DSC_3639.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140309DSC_3639.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140309DSC_3640.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140309DSC_3640.jpg.html)

09-03-2014, 11:43 PM
That is just striking buddy. Those eyes really jump out! Good work ;)

10-03-2014, 01:18 AM
Yes John loving the Blue mate you really knocked this one right out the park mate great work!!

10-03-2014, 08:40 AM
This is coming along great. There's so much to pick up, with all these different textures and materials. I hope to get some time on mine today as well. Oh, and thanks for the explanation on the leather a few posts back.
Are the eyes done, by the way? Right now it slightly bothers me that they're so close to the shirt colourwise, especially when seen from the front. Although I guess a gloss varnish will solve that.

10-03-2014, 09:15 AM
Don't worry Jona that colour thing with his shirt / eye will be sorted in the coming stages ;)

12-03-2014, 08:44 AM
I will be doing a full write up but as a teaser here's where I got to last night...http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0272_1.jpg[/URL[URL=http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0271_1.jpg.html]http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0271_1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0272_1.jpg.html)

12-03-2014, 10:01 AM
Nice idea and totally not what I was expecting! Good that you can throw in suprises at this stage!

12-03-2014, 11:18 PM
Saw this on FB its such a cool look! nice work John:cool:

21-03-2014, 02:44 PM
Oh yes! Digging this. Really, really nice, and the latest eye-spots really make them interesting! I was a bit worried at first as the eyes looked a bit too flat, but I should have known you had a few interesting ideas up your sleeve ;D

24-03-2014, 11:39 PM
So Wampers I'm back to finish the SbS after having a few days off for other stuff.

To begin with I shall run through how I did the eyes. Using the wet blending once again I mixed the following colours in his eyes (wow that sounds painful!) - Space wolves grey, Temple Guard Blue, Sotek Green, Incubi Darkness and a little black. This gave the background to the following picture -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/140309DSC_3637.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/140309DSC_3637.jpg.html)

Then using Chaos Black - it's the only black I've found to be really black - I painted on the pupil nice a careful like. Making sure to get the eyes even and getting some sharp edges.

To be honest I was pretty stumped what to do next, I wanted extra depth and interest but didn't know what or how to approach this. I remember a technique I learned on the massive voodoo course for painting spots and thought I would incorporate that into the eye and the SbS. Using an orange colour I thought I would accomplish the things I wanted in a few easy steps.

Mixing a few yellows, oranges and reds I came to the following mixtures

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005-2.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/005-2.jpg.html)

However I mostly ended up using Fire Dragon Bright from GW (who thinks up these names?).

Using a cocktail stick sanded at the tip in the paint it's really easy to make spots. Using my nail as a guide as to how many dabs it takes to get the right size and look - the first spot or two is too large and after about 4 or 5 they stop working. Hence I spot my nail twice before applying it to the eye.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/003.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/003.jpg.html)

Then using watered down space wolves grey I lined the pupil to give an edge and also to give the illusion that the blue part has depth. To get something this sharp you need to water down the paint so it flows off the brush nicely and have a steady hand!

For the next step I glazed the Fire dragon bright onto the eye being careful not to get it on the pupil. This is very hard to see but does seem to add extra depth. I'll explain glazing in the next (and final) stage so don't worry if you think this needs extra explanation.

I wanted the eye to look very wet and bright, so using slightly watered down Vallejo Gloss varnish I applied a liberal amount onto the eye. By watering it down you make sure it goes on smoothly. I applied a second coat once the first was completely dry.

Hence the eye ended up like this (taken with my phone).

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0272_1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0272_1.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a360/Gazza13/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0271_1.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Gazza13/media/Step%20by%20Step%20Sapo/IMAG0271_1.jpg.html)